Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Prepare a 10-inch angel food pan by doing nothing—the batter needs to cling to the sides to rise properly and cool inverted.

2. If using granulated sugar, place the sugar in a food processor and blend until very finely ground, about 1 minute.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together half of the sugar (125 g), the cake flour, tapioca starch, and salt. Sift the mixture three times, then set aside.

4. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar on high speed until foamy and opaque, about 1 minute.

5. Reduce the speed to medium-low and slowly add the remaining sugar, about 1 tablespoon at a time over 2–3 minutes, allowing it to fully dissolve before adding more.

6. Once all the sugar is incorporated, increase the speed to medium-high and whip until soft, glossy peaks form, about 3–4 minutes. The whites should look smooth and supple, not stiff or dry.

7. Add the vanilla and almond extract and beat on low speed just until incorporated.

8. Sift one-third of the flour mixture over the egg whites and gently fold with a spatula. Repeat two more times, folding carefully to preserve volume.

9. Transfer the batter to the tube pan. Smooth the top and wipe the inner rim clean. Gently run a knife through the batter to release any large air pockets.

10. Bake for 35–40 minutes, until the cake is lightly golden and a skewer inserted near the center comes out clean.

11. Immediately invert the pan onto a wine bottle, placing the bottle through the center tube, and let cool completely, about 1 hour, before removing.